Climbing Island Peak

At 8 AM on May 3, midway up Island Peak’s 70° ice wall, I found myself jumaring horizontally—stomach pressed to the slope—while a team of Russian climbers watched in amused disbelief. Exhausted after eight hours of climbing Island Peak, including a nerve-wracking crawl over a crevasse-spanning ladder, I was in no state to argue when they shouted, “Davai! Stand or fall!”‍

History of an Iconic Himalayan Summit: Island Peak

The 6,189-meter Island Peak (locally Imja Tse) earned its name in 1953 from British Everest Expedition members who marveled at its “isolated” appearance amidst a sea of giants like Lhotse and Everest. Officially renamed in 1983, it remains a bucket-list climb for aspiring mountaineers seeking crevasses, ice walls, and 360° Himalayan vistas.

Climbing Island Peak : From Darkness to Summit to Survival 

1. Preparing for Climbing Island Peak

Our team of four—Varun, Jahnavi, Jasmine, and I—split from the Everest Base Camp group on April 30, lured by Island Peak’s challenges. But the cozy teahouse stays in Chukkung and a decision to avoid Base Camp’s harsh conditions cost us critical jumaring practice—a mistake that haunted me on the headwall.

2. Midnight Start: The First Phase of Climbing Island Peak

We left Base Camp at midnight on May 3, scrambling over rocky trails in darkness. By 2:30 AM, we’d passed High Camp at 5600m at around 2.30 am and reached crampon point at 4:30 AM, just as dawn lit the snow-draped slopes ahead.

3. Climbing Island Peak’s Crevasses: Ladders, Leaps, and Luck

The first hour in crampons tested nerves: four rickety ladders bridged bottomless gaps, while two crevasses required standing jumps. Focused on crampon placement, I ignored the exposure—until the descent revealed a cracked ice bridge, a stark reminder of the mountain’s dangers.

4. The Headwall: Climbing Island Peak’s Crux

By 6 AM, we reached the glacial bowl beneath the infamous 220-meter ice wall. With slopes ranging from 50° to 70°, the “new route” demanded three hours of grueling jumaring. Unlike training videos, this ascent left no room for error—just sheer grit and a Russian climber’s timely advice: “Davai! Stand or fall!”

5. Summiting Island Peak: 360° of Himalayan Majesty

At 9:15 AM, I made it to the top of the ridge and then quickly onto the summit. In a precariously small peak area,, I sat alone for 30 minutes, absorbing views of Lhotse’s south face, Amphu Lapcha’s ridges, and the cloud-smothered Makalu. Climbing Island Peak had promised glory—and delivered.

6. The Descent: Slow Climbing Island Peak’s Legacy

The return to Base Camp was comparatively easy and I made it back to the bowl at the bottom of the ice wall by 11.15. Exhaustion forced a 30-minute break before the final trudge to Base Camp which I reached at 4 pm. Cyclone Fani’s arrival later stranded us in Dingboche, where bridge games and Café 4401’s hot chocolate salvaged the wait.

Key Takeaways from Climbing Island Peak

1. Train for Technical Sections: Jumaring skills are non-negotiable.
2. Respect the Mountain: Crevasses and weather shifts demand humility.
3. Embrace the Journey: Even flawed climbs (belly-crawls included) forge unforgettable stories.

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